Can O Worms Worm Farm Full Package

Product Information

The Can O Worms worm farm is a basic 2 tray worm bin system. The worm farm design is simple and easy to maintain. Worms will feed at a faster rate once they have adapted to any new food source. Worms will also eat more if food waste is cut into small pieces, mashed or processed. Controlling temperatures to around 70 degrees F (24 degrees C) will improve the overall performance of your system. Worms will leave very acidic food such as onions and orange peels until after they have eaten their preferred foods. A handful of garden lime (or crushed eggshells, oyster shells, or ashes from a fire) every few weeks will help to balance the effect of acidic foods. The regular addition of worm fattener (the recipe includes agricultural lime and is included in the Can-O-WormsTM instruction booklet) will encourage stronger, fatter worms. Since they consume up to half their own body weight each day, the fatter they are the more wastes they will eat.

Worms will tolerate a wide temperature range from about 50 - 90 degrees F (10 -30 degrees C). If it gets much hotter than this, make sure the Can-O-WormsTM system is in a shady cool position. Take the lid off and hose the whole unit down keeping the bottom drainage tap turned on so it doesn't flood. If it gets much colder and freezes, put your Can-O-WormsTM in the warmest possible position, an example being your basement, laundry or shed. If it is on a balcony or in the yard, cover the unit with a couple of old carpet pads or old blankets to keep some warmth in. Feed them a lot more food wastes which will create some warmth as the food decomposes. The best place to have your Can-O-WormsTM is indoors, where the temperature always stays the same. adding a handful of soil (be careful of commercial soil as they may contain chemical fertiliser which will kill the organisms) No, the Can-O-WormsTM is fly-proof against household flies. Sometimes the very small vinegar fly (often mistaken for the fruit fly) gets in, but these do not harm. However, very large numbers of the vinegar fly may indicate that you are feeding your Can-O-WormsTM too much and may be a prelude to problems such as offensive odors. To eradicate vinegar flies, slow your rate of feeding to what the worms will eat on a daily basis and ensure that freshly added wastes are covered by a moist newspaper or burlap bag.

Drainage

The appearance of the bin has an appealing design. Yet in my view the round shape does not make the best use of space. For instance it does not fit snug against a straight wall. In addition to this, whenever you cover up food with newspaper or cardboard, you will never be able to tear it perfectly to fit along the rounded sides. This can be a bit annoying. The Tumbleweed Round Worm Blanket makes life easier. Kit includes 3 working trays, 1 collector tray, 1 lid, 5 legs, spigot, bedding material and instructions What will start to happen is that the worms in the 1st tray will run out of food, and the natural response for worms is to start climbing up in search of a new food source. Worms are very flexible, and will start to squeeze themselves through the holes of the 2nd perforated tray base to reach the next level of food. What you are left with is the 1st tray full of wormcast separated from the worms. Any raw vegetables, except for onions, shallots, leeks and garlic that are best used in small amounts or cooked first

Level 4 - Third Working TrayRepeat the procedure as for the Second Working Tray (Level 3) until the Third Working Tray (Level 4) is filled to above the plastic ribs with worm castings. When you have reached this stage, most of the worms will either be in Level 4 or Level 3. You can then take out the first Working Tray (Level 2), (which should have hardly any worms in it at all) and use the rich worm castings in your garden. Once you have emptied this First Working Tray (Level 2) it goes to the top becoming the new Third Working Tray (Level 4) and you start add-ing scraps to begin the process all over again. Continue to regulate feeding to keep just ahead of the worms rate of food consumption. More food will be consumed as the worm population increases. Do not feed the worms too much. As a guide, maintain no more than one inch/2cm of food over half the surface area of the Working Tray. Don't overfeed. Be careful what you feed your worms, particularly if you are unaware of it's source. Manures , for example, from horses, cattle or dogs often have vermicides still active in it that were designed to kill parasitic worms in the animal. They can kill all your worms in one day. If you use animal manures make sure you know when worming is conducted and avoid using the manure for a few weeks. Stay away from meat and meat by products.

Appearance

To start this worm farm, you will need 1000 Composting Worms. Worms not included.
We also recommend the following items (sold separately): I will monitor the moisture of the bin on a daily basis the first couple of days and see if the worms are happy to be collected by the client this weekend. Now your problem seems to be that the worms are not going to the next level up, but instead the next level down. Without seeing your wormery I can not determine the reason why they are doing this, but there are a few common explanations. Wormcast is slightly toxic to worms The Can-O-Worms worm farm is user friendly, easy to operate and fun for all ages. It is so versatile that it can be left on a balcony or in a laundry for apartment dwellers, in a shed or in a shaded outdoor location for those with a yard. Reds’ and 'Dendras'. They live and breed happily in an organic rich environment like a Can-O-WormsTM worm farm, or a Reln Compost Bin or even a heavily mulched garden where moisture

A. This situation can arise in two ways. First, you may be adding new food too soon before the worms can eat the previous food. This will result in a lot of uneaten wastes being distributed throughout the system and a general reluctance by the worms to migrate upwards while they can still access material lower in the system. Before adding new trays, stop feeding the worms for at least a week to ensure that all existing food in the lower tray has been eaten. Worms will then move up to eat from the surface as this is their natural behaviour pattern. Secondly, you may not have waited for the level of worm castings to pass the support ribs on the inside of the tray before adding the next tray. This will create a gap preventing the worms from reaching the top trays. A. What you are noticing is the worms sensitivity to pressure changes in the weather. They will often go up into the lid even before it rains. In nature this takes them out of the soil to stop them flooding and drowning. Move the Can-O-WormsTM out of the rain. Take the worms out of the lid and replace them in the bedding. Tonight I needed to start a Can-O-Worms for a customer so I took the opportunity to record the steps with some photographs. Step 3. Place the cardboard display that came with your Can-O-WormsTM in your first Working Tray to stop your coir bedding falling through. Once you’ve added your worms, add a layer of kitchen waste – no more than a couple of inches (5cm) to start with. You can also add a layer of hessian to keep them extra snug. Wait a week before adding any more food, so give the worms time to settle into their new home.On the above note, the worms do settle and less inclined to escape after a few days, I think the 24 hour journey via postal / courier service + new accommodation up-scuttles them. Last step is to cover the whole thing with more fresh and dry bedding material, in this case some more egg box cardboard

As recommended in the article I used hessian to cover the worms in the box (that was my interpretation) to find I had a few worms entwined in the weave of fabric and nearly garrotting themselves so decided to opt for a layer of thin brown card instead. The worms will digest any vegetable kitchen scraps, including coffee grounds, that you’d normally add to compost, but avoid meat or animal products such as cheese which can attract flies. Go easy on citrus peel and alliums like onion and garlic too, as large amounts will make conditions too acidic for your worms. You can also add small amounts of weeds and leaves, as well as shredded, non-glossy newspaper or torn-up cardboard. If too much waste is added for the worms to cope with then the wormery may start to smell. This could also attract flies and possibly vermin. Remove and dispose of excess or undigested food. Wait until the worms start digesting the top layer of food before adding further waste. Fix the tap to the Collector Tray with the nut on the inside. (turn the tap not the nut)2. Attach the five legs making sure they slide firmly into place.3. Place one Working Tray on the Collector Tray. (Put aside the other Working Trays in a convenient place until you need them).A lot of absolute rubbish is written and repeated about worm composting, equally there is also information that many people involved in the industry are not so sure about, after 23 years in the worm game, preceeded by 15 years in the nursery trade, preceeded by 10 years in the “Topsoil” game I am happy to stand by my own views however much they contradict others, so………. They will not tolerate extreme acidity and dislike being waterlogged because this restricts their supply of air Use this rich fertaliser on all your indoor and outdoor plants. Dilute 50-100mls concentrate to 1 litre water.