Revell 05422 Cutty Sark 1:96 Scale Unbuilt/Unpainted Plastic Model Kit

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I started more than one year ago but I’ll start the log from the beginning, hoping to help other members not to do the same mistake I did. In the above picture the home made handropes and relative eyebolts on the bowsprit are also visible. This feature is omitted by the kit but it’s easy to scratch build and worth to be added. The front end of the ship. Really looks quite nice, although I'm sure the figurehead is supposed to be larger...?

Happy with the look, I cut a new one, more carefully trimmed and I painted it with a basic white acrylic coat with my airbrush. For the bow and stern decoration, the kit provide decals. I don’t like them, and so I searched for photo etched parts. Hi, looking forward to read your build. I've invested quite a bit in additional parts and built a work station out of an old ironing board (pictures of which are somewhere on these forums). Not started yet. I have the etch decorations for the stern and bow and have been wondering which is the cleanest way of gluing them on (after painting the hull?). I've been studying Lenroberto's excellent photos trying to figure out whether this Academy kit (which I'd never heard of) is in fact a reissue of something else. I can't tell. I think it may be the Imai 1/125 kit (model companies are notorious for failing to figure out the scales of ship kits), but I don't think so. (I remember some features of the Imai one - but it's been a mighty long time since I actually saw it.) Maybe Academy has actually brought out a new kit of its own. If so, the price is remarkably reasonable. Unfortunately, at the beginning my idea was to build an almost out of the box kit and I didn't make any improvement in this area. Now I regret my laziness, even if the modification is not that simple…Buff, desert yellow and similar tones were used the base for the wood. Burnt umber filters helped to break the uniformity and bring the wood a better look (at least I hope…) and the details were highlighted by pastels and oils (remember that the detail are raised and not recessed in this old kit). Finally made some headway on this one. The rigging is in progress, and there is a lot. I don't like the billowing vacform sails and they are extra work so I'll leave these off. I'm not sure of the origin of this kit - an old Revell catalogue (probably 1967) I have only lists the 1/96 version but this doesn't mean it isn't Revell - the sprues have a Heller look to them, I dunno... anyway here it is so far. The Cutty Sark: The Ship and the Model, by C. Nepean Longridge. Longridge was one of the first of the great scale ship modelers. This book, written in the 1930s, describes how he built a model of the Cutty Sark on 1/48 scale. (The model is still in the Science Museum, London.) Longridge's techniques are extremely dated now, but the book contains plenty of information about the ship's details - including plenty of information about the rigging. If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you. The number, shape and position of lifeboats, jolly boat and captain’s gig are different in my two main source of information: Campbell’s plans and Longridge book.

I was tempted too, but at that time I had zero experience in wood modelling, and I was afraid to make major mistakes in a such important area. No. 4, released in 1972, was the "Cutty Sark Wall Plaque," part of another Revell marketing ploy that looks kind of silly now. It consisted of No. 3 with part of its hull missing, mounted on a plastic plaque with an "antique" map on it. The box contained a bottle of "gold antiquing wax." Ugh. I'm in the middle of building the Revell Cutty Sark. Have had the kit stored for about 15 years so thought it was about time to take it out of the box. I too got those decorative photo-etch thingies and also worried about glue everywhere. You made a tidy job of them.

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The kit I'm building has much better printed instructions, though the original drawings are displayed differently, with minimally modified captions. One for the stash.

The holes for the plastic shrouds needs to be filled. To drill the new holes for the wooden deadeyes I have used a scaled version of the Campbell’s plans which fit perfectly the model size. This scaling operation is really useful and it will be helpful in many other circumstances. One is by C. Nepean Longridge describing how he built the London Science Museum model published by Model and Allied Publications. (MAP) There is a brilliant set of plans of the Cutty Sark by George Campbell that are really the definitive set to obtain. I think that the Maritime Museum in Greenwich sells them. I bought mine many years ago when visiting the ship itself so the Cutty Dark Society may be other source or maybe the ship has an on line shop. I decided to show the lifeboat covered, so the interior was not detailed that much. On the outside I added the holders for the rudder.The instruction suggest to use thread for the railing but I don’t like this solution. I opted instead for thin copper wire, twisted around the poles and painted in white. To secure the lower deadeye I used a small diameter copper wire, pre painted in white and twisted in the lower side. The twisted part pass trough the holes in the main rail and it is bent and glued in place. In later issues the kit got modified in several ways, none of them really major. The operating steering gear apparently disappeared almost immediately. (I guess it didn't work well.) The advice on advanced rigging techniques vanished from the instructions. The most obvious change came when Revell added a set of vacuum-formed plastic "sails." For a while the kit was being issued in a "museum classics" format, with brass-plated mounting pedestals and a wood baseboard. And I guess somewhere along the line they quit putting the copper paint on the hull. Essentially, though, any 1/96 Revell Cutty Sark is, except for the sails, like any other. How to fix ratlines to mast with scraps of sheet. Note hole mistakenly drilled in earlier attempt to fix these things...