Drill Hammer Chisel SDS Plus Tile Removal Tool Hammer Drill Chisel Cleaning Tools Plaster Tiles Removal Wall Shovels for Construction and Renovation

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The systematic approach of working your way down the wall has several benefits, not least of which is safety. Here’s how to go about it: Vacuum the Area: Even after sweeping, there’s likely to be a lot of dust and small particles left behind. Use a shop vacuum or a home vacuum cleaner (with a good filter) to vacuum the area thoroughly. You may need to do this several times to fully remove all the dust. Also, leaving the plate in one place too long and overheating the artex can cause it to liquefy and run everywhere, creating even more of a mess. The obvious problem here, is accessing the fixings once the boards are fixed in place. Once this happens, the screw holes are filled and then they are painted over.

For really stubborn nails use an angle grinder or multi-tool to cut the nail tight against the skirting. Cut into Sections: Instead of scoring the plasterboard, it’s usually easier to cut it into larger sections. Using a utility knife, cut the plasterboard into about 2-foot by 2-foot sections. Be mindful of what’s behind the wall to avoid cutting into any electrical wires or plumbing. Hold the knife at an angle and apply even pressure as you drag it across the plaster to score it. You’re looking to make a series of vertical and horizontal cuts in the plaster to create a grid pattern. Each square in the grid should be about a foot wide. This size is ideal because it results in chunks of plaster that are easy to manage during removal. Depth of ScoringAs we have stated above, plasterboard is bulky and heavy and can be a nightmare to position and hold in place as you fix it, especially if you’re working on a ceiling.

Use Different Tools: If increasing the force isn’t working or isn’t an option, you could try using different tools. A pry bar might be useful to get underneath the plaster and apply pressure in a different way. Steaming artex off is a very messy process that involves lots of water dripping down, especially when working on a ceiling and lots of soft, damp artex, so the first task is to remove any furniture present in the room and then cover anything left and the floor with plastic dust sheets or tarps. Before you do however, as plasterboard is as porous as bare plaster, it will need to be sealed. To do this you can use a plasterboard sealer or you can give it 2 coats of watered down PVA or SBR (mixed at 75% PVA/SBR to 25% water). Take regular breaks during the process. Not only is the work physically demanding, but the dust created can make the environment challenging. A dust mask and frequent ventilation of the room are highly recommended. Dealing with Stubborn Sections Dealing with lath requires patience and care, as it can be sharp and there are often hidden nails. Working methodically and staying mindful of safety will help ensure a successful project. No Lath?Using a 3 inch paint brush, dip it in the X-Tex and then apply it to the artex. Be liberal when applying and ensure there’s a good coating. Their flat top gives you an edge to work to and finishes flush with the surface of the plaster. When decorated they are not visible. Each tool would be used in a separate place, and this technique is usually good right at the start to get the board moving. Removing skirting boards fixed with screws

The lath can also be quite sharp, especially if it splinters as you’re removing it. This is another reason why it’s important to wear sturdy gloves during this process. Clean As You Go

Scrape Off the Plaster Walls

Once ready to scrape, hold your scraper as flat to the surface as you can and then simply scrape the artex off in strips. Work your way over your patch until clear. Dilute the PVA at 1 to 1 with water and stir well. Paint this on the ceiling/wall with a large emulsion brush. Just like with the plaster removal, it’s generally best to start at the top of the wall and work your way down. This will prevent you from pulling lath down onto areas that still have lath attached, which could be hazardous. Use a Crowbar or Pry Bar If you do find asbestos present, don’t panic, as long as you don’t disturb it, it’s fine, but if you want it removed, there are only a few solutions: Wide metal spatula - (for scraping the walls down afterwards, so an old one that you're not too bothered about would be best)

You should follow the test procedure for sampling textured coatings (Artex) as stated in the kit instructions. However, it has been proven that the asbestos content of a bag of textured coating could settle to the bottom of the bag before mixing and application and therefore, unless the whole bag was mixed at the same time, could result in some areas of a ceiling could containing asbestos when others do not. It is recommended that samples are taken from 4 or 5 places across the ceiling and not just one. These samples can be mixed in the sample bag and analysed as one sample.Again you will need to use plastic as the gel will soak into it and although it probably won’t soak through, it’s much easier to scrape off from plastic. Regular DIY Doctor reader, Steve, made a great point. Having been a fully qualified asbestos surveyor and been responsible for the asbestos management at one of the largest housing associations in the UK we feel he was offering excellent advice with real hands on experience. Pry off the Sections: Insert a pry bar into the cuts you’ve made and carefully pry the sections away from the wall studs. Again, be mindful of what’s behind the wall.