Spyderco Knife Sharpener Tri-angle Sharpmaker Used to Sharpen Hunting Knives & Self Sharpening Knife by Using Ceramic Knife Sharpening Stone

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The rods themselves are ceramic. The main things to watch out for with ceramic sharpening stones is to be careful not to drop them as they are brittle and can shatter, and that you will need periodically clean them with Ajax or a similar powdered abrasive cleaner. Ceramic is porous and you will see the rods fill up with tiny metal shavings. Once they fill up they must be cleaned out or the rods won’t work as efficiently. The good news is that the rods are triangular so you can rotate them around and get plenty of use in between cleanings. The other nice thing about triangular rods is that you can even sharpen recurved edges if you use the corners of the stones. The FIRST thing you should do is to fit the guard rods (for whichever angle you are working to). Notice how the lid fits over the base at a halfway point to act as a handle.

I have not yet sharpened often enough using your deburring method to be able to form a final opinion. But I am almost certain, that it does not matter how shallow exactly the deburring strokes are (and that it does not matter if the angle differs a bit from time to time). I somehow found myself with a burgeoning little collection of Spydercos. I'd had a Native for many years without much thought about collecting, per se. It was a tool and when one broke I'd get another. Fast forward to today and I am enjoying my knives so much that I find myself buying ones without any specific purpose in mind other than the fact that I like em. One of the most important steps in sharpening is burr removal. With plain carbon steels this is easy,,, the real difficulty is with the high vanadium steels and high Cr content steels. These steels form a very small and tough to remove burr. From my personal experience, a quality Torx set, libricant, and sharpener is a great place to start. Re-Profiling is when you change or repair the 'little' bevel angle. That's the bevel that does the cutting. Spyderco strive to supply knives with a 30deg inclusive bevel but as you may imagine ... different factories, different sharpening methods and numerous other variables means the bevel may not necessarily be 30deg. in my experience some knives will have a more obtuse angle perhaps 40deg. So when you re-profile you regrind that 'little' bevel to the angle of your choice.Bloke is right that the diamond and CBN rods are useful for reprofiling. They also help a lot with extremely hard steels. If I ever get a knife with ZDP-189, I'll get one of these rod sets myself. And practicing with cheap knives first is good advice. I will constantly be updating this first post, so that you won't have to read through the entire thread to absorb all the advice. In addition to a text list, there will be tutorial videos at the end of the post.

I have a Nikon microscope with variable power and several eyepieces that gives 10x-80x magnification. This is not the fingernail or finger print test. Alex (Bloke), I hope you don´t mind me trying to explain that once more for those REALLY new to the matter. I don't have enough knowledge to evaluate that information; maybe you can edu-ma-cate me. My simple question is: The video is a good starting ground but is far too tame. You need to be able to evaluate where the edge truly is, this will only come with both time and practice. Cruwear is an easy to grind and sharpen steel. Your current stones will most likely handle it fine. S110V is a much more difficult to grind steel and will require some more heavy duty abrasives to assure you are cutting the steel and not burnishing it.He uses the 40 degree setting: As you wrote, and as I experienced with my Delica CE and now Endela SE, the 30 degree setting is the way to go if you want to maintain the factory edge (and not create some 40 degree microbevel) at least on a Spyderco SE knife There is a lot of mystery surrounding how to sharpen serrated knives. I know that serrated knives would enjoy more popularity if people understood how to sharpen them as universally as plain edges. None of mine have come at 30, all of my SE blades hit the shoulder at 30. They all seem to be more like 35ish inclusive. My leaf Caribbean also never hits the edge at the tip even at 40, I have to sharpen the tip freehand. I think that one has to do with how much the blade sweeps up at the tip.