Clarik 3/16" X 25 Ft Cupro Nickel (Kunifer) Brake Pipe 1 Roll

Product Information

A few years ago, I replaced them with a full set (I mean EVERY pipe) from Classic Tube https://www.classictube.com/ NSRA Members enjoy discounted entry to NSRA events, a specialised insurance scheme and valuation service, supplier discounts, full access to the NSRA’s on-line Forum, You need a good pipecutter and particularly a good solid flaring tool. Mine is an old Sykes Picavant. Weighs plenty but does a good job. I'm going for braided hoses where movement is needed, which is only from the inner wing to the suspension struts at the front and then a 3rd to the rear axle, the rest is to be solid pipes. As I say I still use both on my own vehicles so cann't say I'm negative against copper - or pro Kunifer.

need to diy a couple of brake pipes that are tatty , is kunifer the prefered choice for home users? Each brake line to rear could not be removed in one piece, I worked out two cut points where needed. With patience they where removed to enable them to be used as templates for making new lines. to put it in perspective when I went to start on the brakes for the roadster 3 or so months ago I went round the big 4 or 5 motor factors (some of which are nationwide motor factors) in dundee and not 1 of them sold kunifer, they all said they havent seen it for at least 10 years or so - that means that any second car in and around the dundee area that has had brakes pipes done in 10 years or so has likely to have had copper pipes put on. Thread the fitting onto the pipe and make sure it is the right way round before forming the flare........ this, so many times this.I've removed copper pipes off cars which I'd only fitted it a couple of years previously and aren't wasn't happy about reusing as they SEEMED to have aged or however you describe it. The ones in the engine bay all look fine, however they are 33 years old so I fancy replacing them. The ones that came off the standard calipers however were well past their use by date by the looks of them, I actually snapped one removing it. I imagine the ones on the rear axle will be a state too when I get to doing them. I've got one of those tools that Bearman and Steve have linked to. Mine is called a "powerhand", despite it sounding like an elabourate w king machine its sole purpose is making flares, and tight spaces if needs be! I've got the metric DIN version. My Z is 18 years and has advisories on its last mot for corrosion of the front steel brake pipes. I had a good look around the rear end of the car and there where brake lines in some places around the nearside wheel arch and above the diff where the integrity looked dubious. Hence my next challenge, could all of the rear fixed steel brake pipes be replaced with Kunifer having access to only a set of car ramps and axle stands? I searched the forums and found plenty of good general information on replacing brake lines generally and the tools required but nothing I could find to specific to guide me. Goods news is that it can be done. Having recently retired must admit I have the time to spend doing this hence scope eventually turned out to be:

I just wanted to drop you a line to say thank you for the Brake Pipe Set for my Jensen C-V8 which I received today. I am very impressed with the quality of the goods and the speed of your service. Very refreshing these days!" D. Chapman Although copper is readily available cheap, I wonder why maunufacturers don't use it as factory fitted. There must be a reason. i would rather pay more and do the job once, right, than find out it could have been done better once I've used copper. If you see what I mean. Many thanks for this write up. It is likely to be invaluable when i have to do mine sometime soon. Is the copper pipe any good for this? Also are the union nuts standard metric ones? Our brake pipe sets are assembled with pride for your specific vehicle.Each pipe is cut to the correct length, fitted with solid brass unions and marked clearly to indicate the correct location on the vehicle. Presumably if the pipe's made right first time (with the recommended material) and installed correctly it won't break because it hasn't been work hardened to a catastrophic degree.

Adaptors & Fittings

I can get 25 feet of copper on my way home from work tomorrow however if I go for Kunifer I've got to mess around with delivery which i'll miss then have to go & fetch it at the weekend. Our new vapour and sweat free hose range designed for motorsport. Easy self assembly and around half the weight of 200 & T9 series. Overhaul all front and rear callipers, new seals and including painting of the calipers + new EBC pads.

The pipe set received today for the DB2 will fit perfectly. Thank you for the speed, efficiency and courtesy of your service." Yours sincerely, P. Livemore Is it entirely reasonable and feasible to make up your own copper brake pipes yourself, if you have the right kit, and: Suitable for non-pressurised fuel pipe & for OE modifications or replacements on all types of brake & hydraulic linesI can point you to at least 4 or 5 people that have used Copper and they have all had failures directly behind the flare, thats where it always breaks due to fatigue when flared. Yes, it's fine to make your own brake pipes. As some have said, the pure copper pipes are prob not the best, and the Knifer copper is better. brake light Decals - please PM for info. (Availabily - Z3 Pre Face Lift 7, Z3 Face Lift 1, Z4 E85 8, Z4 E89 4, Window 1.)